Sho Nagata's first collection expresses the subculture sprit (such as frustration driven behaviors) and exchange between different subcultures, as well as how a piece of clothing and the idea of a man wearing it changed when the clothes interacted with different cultures and environments.
The design of this collection started after being inspired by the identity (rebellion and resistance against existing ideas and discrimination) expressed by a group called West Coast Pachuco in early 1940s. The group expressed rebellion by fashion, and their distinctive suit style became the group’s symbol and uniform (expression of resistance and formation of identity).
The collection introduce's a fictional character.
This person goes on a trip, ends up in London, and meets punk culture which has a different rebel resistant sprit from pachuco. How the cultural exchange there influenced the person’s style and sensibility, and their chemical reaction are expressed.
Tailored/suit style became a uniform, and it is the foundation of the collection.
For Le Kilt's Sam McCoach, the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund would mean "education and staff". "I would like to explore new ways of promoting the longevity of clothing through educational workshops - both with school-age children, and partnering with cultural institutions nationwide," she explains.
McCoach, who founded Le Kilt in 2014 with a vision of modernising the traditional kiltmaking techniques of her grandmother, is on a mission to safeguard the survival of her heritage, and promote buying less, quality garments and making them last. The prize money would grant her wish to "open a small retail space featuring a revolving array of work from textiles to craft all made and sourced in the UK", while the mentorship would throw up some valuable financial advice. "As a small brand it is often a challenge to know which areas to invest in," she clarifies.
Papermen brings in aspects of classic tailoring in a contemporary, stripped back fashion. The clothes embrace form and function, playfully challenging perceptions of the self. The collection of shirts & jackets are the start of any wardrobe.
Papermen's James Alexander Weir trained on Savile Row with eight formative years of classical tailoring, during which the ideas and identity of Papermen evolved to create clothes with a unique and subtle attention to detail.
The making of every shirt is overseen by the designer through cut-to-finish. The origin and construction of the garments is key to the identity of Papermen, and its relationship with the men and women who wear them.
Where it all began...
"A week after finishing my A Levels in Art & Textiles, I took a day trip to London and stumbled upon Saville Row. Immediately I knew that I would become a Tailor. For me it was all the elements I most love combined: history, craft and tradition. On that same day I walked straight into 'Henry Poole & Co' and asked for an apprenticeship there and then.
I started the apprenticeship the following week.
This was a full intensive 3 years, I first started on coats but was not content and wanted to master all aspects and so furthered the apprenticeship another 2 years giving me overall 5 years extensive training."
"A Levelsのテストを終了したのち、ロンドンに日帰りで小旅行に出かけ、サヴィルローのあたりをうろついていたときに、テイラーの魅力に惹かれ、テイラーになることを瞬時で決めました。私にとってテイラーは私が最も愛する、歴史であり、職人、伝統の要素が全て揃っていることです。その日帰り旅行の際に、Henry Pooleの門を叩き、修行を申し込んだのです。
How long were you at Saville row?
"I spent 8 years in total at Saville Row before setting out on my own and launching Papermen. It was a very intensive training and working environment where I would be there for 12 hour days training and perfecting my craft."
What is the inspiration behind Papermen?
"Papermen is about using aspects of traditional tailoring in a completely different way. The Papermen clothes have a seemingly flat form but come to life when worn, creating a unique relationship with the wearer.
The name comes from a memory in which I made a miniature shop inside a shoebox for my mother, I remember I created a very detailed shop including all the shop interiors and rails. I then cut out little paper clothes and put them on little paper hangers - reflecting back on this is where the idea began."
Describe for us your process
"Each piece has an immense amount of attention to detail and craft, all designed and hand made by myself in house with various rigorous techniques and process’s which add to the inherent value of the pieces.
For instance, the fabric we use to get the texture I am satisfied with - first has to be soaked for 5 hours, dried and then pressed before I can start working with it.
I have incorporated all the skills I have learnt as a tailor although the actual designs completely go against Saville Row traditions of 3D form and concealed finishing!
I have some very exciting ideas for the future of Papemen, as the collections build, I aim for the pieces to be collected and cherished as they wear and evolve over the years."
We are excited to announce Cancellto joining us at Touba
Canceletto is the Knitwear brand based on innovation, technical research and critical thinking from Diletta Cancellato
"ORDINARY INTIMACY AND ACCIDENTAL POETRY"
August 9, 2017
by Brooke Bobb
Sculpture is a natural starting point for 2017 LVMH Prize finalist Cecilie Bahnsen. Her designs are tactile and precise, and like any great piece of art, they draw you in with a single glance. Such was the case with her Spring 2018 collection, which was shown today in a gallery space that she found long before she began designing the clothes. “I wanted to make each piece look and feel like a gallery piece,” Bahnsen explained afterward. “I wanted the designs to be able to stand on their own like a little sculpture.” And indeed they did, particularly the full-skirted baby doll dresses and tops that came bouncing softly through the stark-white space. Bahnsen also introduced more color this season, with light pink and yellow looks that lent a welcome freshness to her familiar fishnet details and quilted fabrics.
If last season was about establishing a fictional muse or character study for Bahnsen and her brand, Spring was about refining her. The slightly tomboy-inspired school uniform vibe the designer presented was updated with something lighter and more feminine. The designs seemed much less serious and more relaxed—confident, too. Among the flutter of ball skirts and ruffles, she also showed striking white separates and one particular dress with subtle pleating and billowed sleeves that made you think: I could live in that thing.
With plaited pigtails and socks and sneakers worn with every single look, the new Bahnsen girls are a little “cute, like they could be Peggy Guggenheim’s nieces,” the talented young designer said. “We are working with the same fabrics and materials, but making sure the DNA of the brand is being evolved and perfected—it’s been really fun to push it.”
Papermen clothes embrace form and function, playfully challenging perceptions of the self. This collection of eleven shirts is the start of any wardrobe.
Papermen began life in Savile Row with eight formative years of classical training during which the ideas and identity of Papermen evolved to create clothes with a unique attention to detail.
Every shirt is made in England and is overseen by the designer through cut, make and finish which is key to the identity of Papermen and its relationship with the men and women who wear them.
"The beauty industry is definitely booming in Korea, but it’s not the only export worth batting a lash at. Meet Beauton, a Seoul-based jewelry brand that’s a minimalist dream — the antithesis to your 20-stop K-beauty regimen. Each piece is simple, centralizing on the sculptural element through the use of refined lines and curves. Think pared-down accessories yet still impactful enough to turn up the everyday. Browse the intrinsic lookbook above, and shop Beauton at Machine-A."
The British Fashion Council (BFC), in collaboration with The Hoxton, will present this season’s line-up for The Hoxton Collective, a designer showroom in The Apartment at The Hoxton, Holborn from 12th – 13th June. The curated space will feature womenswear ready-to-wear pre collections from new designers Eudon Choi, FYODOR GOLAN, Rejina Pyo, Teatum Jones and Teija and returning designers Phoebe English and Shrimps.